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No. This product is not intended for use in any plumbing system where plumbing codes are enforced. 


No. As the cable and cutter pass through the valve, the flapper would be damaged. Once the cable passes by the flapper, it would not be able to return because the flapper would close down on it. This would cause permanent damage to the flapper. Cleanout Tees should be installed on either side of the Backwater device.


You will have to pay attention to the drains for signs that the Backwater valve is closed. If the valve is closed the water will not be able to pass through it and will back up through the lowest drain in the home (floor drain or shower base in the lowest level of the home). The drains will also gurgle as water is being let out of the fixture.


Yes. After every heavy rain storm it would be a good practice to open the access cover and make sure no debris was lodged in between the flapper and body, which would not allow the flapper to close. If there are not any storms in a 3 month period of time, it is also recommended that you inspect the flapper to make sure that no debris from normal use is lodged or stuck between the flapper and valve body. This will ensure the valve can seat properly if a storm passes through. 


No. The flapper would remain in an open position without any backflow protection.


You should contact the barrel manufacturer for their recommendations.


You can disconnect the hose and insert the red plug. 


If you disconnect the hose and insert the red stopper plug into the outlet of the diverter, the minimal amount of water that freezes inside the diverter body will not damage the diverter. The diverter is designed to redirect a small amount of water into the outlet as it spirals through the downspout. Once it is capped off a very small amount of water will be trapped and able to freeze. This small amount of water will have plenty of room to expand as it freezes without causing expansion damage to the diverter. 


100% silicone caulk is recommend. There are many conditions where plumbers putty could cause product failure and finished product staining, please refer to category #4 FAQs for these applications.


After the finished height of the No-Caulk Shower Drain is determined as described in the installation instructions, the finished vertical drain height will be ¾” below that. Contact our customer service department and they will be happy to send you a copy of the instruction sheet and exploded view drawing. 


Stainless steel


#10 x ¼” 


The Closet Flange Spacer Kit is used when the finished floor of your bathroom is higher than the bottom of the existing toilet flange. After the toilet has been removed, you must remove the existing toilet bolts and clean all the old wax off of the existing toilet flange. Decide how much height is needed in order for the bottom of the top flange to be parallel with the finished floor height. You should replace the existing flange if it is broken or rusted badly, the spacer kit will not work for this application. After confirming the existing flange is in good condition, install the new extra-long toilet bolts into the flange. You can use the gaskets which come with the kit to seal between multiple PVC spacers, but 100% silicone is recommended between top of the existing flange and the bottom of the first spacer. This will ensure that all voided areas are water tight between the transition points. After the desired height is reached the flat washers and ¼” nuts are threaded onto the extra-long bolts, this will compress and hold the spacers in place. It is recommended that you try and secure the new spacer or spacers to the subfloor through the four holes molded into the spacers. You can now install a wax seal and finish the toilet installation. Never use one of the seals in place of the wax seal. THE TOILET WILL LEAK WHEN FLUSHED!   


Yes. The Square Snap-Tite strainers can replace round Snap-Tite strainer.


Polished Brass / Satin Nickel / Satin Chrome / Antique Bronze / Rubbed Bronze


Yes. The Moss Bay Replacement flange is designed specifically for this application.


The flat side of the gasket should be at the bottom of No-Caulk drain body, seating onto the inside lip of the body. The beveled side of the gasket will be facing up.


The large rubber sealing washer will be placed up against the underside of the shower base, and the friction washer will be placed between the rubber sealing washer and locking nut. Contact our customer service department and they will be happy to send you a copy of the instruction sheet and exploded view drawing. 


The easiest way to remove the strainer is to weave a string or small wire through two openings near the edge of the strainer and pull straight up. It is not recommended that you pry the corner up because it could damage the shower base surface. When you are ready to reinstall the strainer, simply line it up over the drain body and press down evenly.


Contact our customer service department and they will be happy to send you a copy of the instruction sheet and exploded view drawing. 


Oatey offers three styles of repair flanges for this application. 

  • The first is the No-Caulk cast iron repair flange which comes in two depths. Once the old flange is removed and cast iron pipe is cleaned off, these flanges will slide over the vertical cast iron drain pipe. The flat side of the gasket should be facing down and resting on the inside bottom lip of the flange. Tightening the four bolts in even rotation will compress the gasket against the outside of the pipe, and create a water tight seal. Remember that the bottom of the flange must be set on top of the finished flooring, and then screwed into the subfloor.
  • The second is our PVC or ABS Twist-N-Set repair flange which inserts into the vertical cast iron drain pipe after the old flange is removed. The gasket tightens as the flange is turned in a clockwise rotation. Remember that the bottom of the flange must be set on top of the finished flooring, and then screwed into the subfloor.
  • The third option is the PVC or ABS Replacement closet repair flange which also inserts into the vertical cast iron drain pipe after the old flange is removed. This flange is sealed by the tightening of three stainless steel bolts in even rotation. This compresses the gasket between the outside of the flange tail piece, and the inside of the cast iron drain. Remember that the bottom of the flange must be set on top of the finished flooring, and then screwed into the subfloor.

All flanges must be screwed into the subfloor before setting the toilet bowl into place, this sometimes will require drilling pilot holes through the finished flooring.  


Liquilock is not recommended for use in fish tanks. The crystals will cling to the glass, plastic corners, or seams and are difficult to rinse out of the tank completely. If these crystals remain in the tank and consumed by the fish, the fish will most likely perish. 


You can use Liquilock when replacing an old water heater. Liquilock will work great to encapsulate the sludge and remaining water in the bottom of the tank after it is drained. Once you have drained the old tank and are ready to carry it out of the home, close the water heater drain or plug the drain hole. Pour 3 packages of Liquilock into the tank through the hot water inlet side (no dip tube) and after five minutes you can remove the tank from the home without splashing and spilling.


1 package of Liquilock will work for a 1.6 gallon toilet and 2 packages will be necessary for a 3.5 gallon toilet. Remember to shut the water off and flush the toilet before adding the Liquilock to the water in the toilet bowl.


No. Liquilock is only approved for use on plumbing fixtures supplied with potable water.


Liquilock can be left in a toilet for up to 1 week (5days) without any issues. If you plan on storing the toilet for longer periods of time or if it is extremely hot and dry where the toilet will be stored, wrap the toilet in a 55 gallon trash bag to keep the Liquilock from crusting over.


Yes. Liquilock is biodegradable.


You should make sure that your wax seal is between 70°F and 110°F at the time of installation. This will give you the best compression for a water tight seal.


The shelf life depends on how the product is stored. If a wax seal is stored in a dry location exposed to temperatures between 40°F and 110°F, the shelf life is 5 years from date of manufacture.


No. Wax seals made with bees wax would be too expensive and would not have any benefits or advantages over our current products.