Drains & Toilet Flanges

Yes. Oatey offers three repair flange options, all of which must be set on top of the finished floor and screwed into the subfloor before setting the toilet. No-Caulk Cast Iron Repair Flange: Slides over the outside of the vertical cast iron pipe. Tighten four bolts evenly to compress the gasket and create a watertight seal. PVC/ABS Twist-N-Set Repair Flange: Inserts into the pipe; tightens by rotating clockwise. PVC/ABS Replacement Closet Repair Flange: Inserts into the pipe; sealed by tightening three stainless steel bolts evenly to compress the gasket. Fix-It Repair Ring: Provides an easy solution for repairing broken, cracked or worn-out toilet mounting flanges without replacing the flange itself. Engineered to form a secure connection between the floor and toilet, this flange repair ring aligns with the traditional method of installation: the wax ring is mounted on the flange and seals directly to the toilet. This ensures the elimination of leak paths and makes the Fix-it Repair Ring ideal for any floor type or flange installation height. Note: Pilot holes through finished flooring may be required for subfloor attachment.

Remove the toilet and clean all old wax from the existing flange. Stack spacers to reach the correct height so the bottom of the top flange sits flush with the finished floor. Install new extra-long toilet bolts, apply 100% silicone between the existing flange and first spacer (use included gaskets between additional spacers), then secure with flat washers and ¼ in. nuts. Anchor spacers to the subfloor through the molded holes, then install a wax seal and reinstall the toilet. Important: Replace the flange if broken or badly rusted — the spacer kit will not work in that case. Never substitute an included seal for the wax seal; the toilet will leak when flushed.

A toilet flange (also called a closet flange) is a pipe fitting that connects the toilet to the drain pipe and secures the toilet to the floor. It creates a watertight seal between the toilet and the drainage system, preventing leaks and sewer gas from entering your home. The flange is essential for proper toilet function and must be installed at the correct height—flush with the finished floor—to ensure a proper seal with the wax ring.

To install a No-Caulk Shower Drain, start by applying a ½-inch bead of plumber’s putty (or silicone for ABS drains) to the underside of the drain flange and inserting it into the shower base. From below the base, place the rubber sealing washer and friction washer over the drain barrel and tighten the locking ring to secure it. Next, set the shower base into its final position. Place the rubber pipe gasket over the drainpipe and push it into the drain body. The flat side of the gasket should be at the bottom of No-Caulk drain body, seating onto the inside lip of the body. The beveled side of the gasket will be facing up.Tighten the gasket set screw or compression assembly to create a watertight seal, then snap the drain cover into place. For detailed instructions and visuals, see Oatey’s project guide.

After the toilet has been removed, you must remove the existing toilet bolts and clean all the old wax off the existing toilet flange. Decide how much height is needed in order for the bottom of the top flange to be parallel with the finished floor height. You should replace the existing flange if it is broken or rusted badly; the spacer kit will not work for this application. After confirming the existing flange is in good condition, install the new extra-long toilet bolts into the flange. You can use the gaskets that come with the kit to seal between multiple PVC spacers, but 100% silicone is recommended between the top of the existing flange and the bottom of the first spacer. This will ensure that all voided areas are water tight between the transition points. After the desired height is reached, the flat washers and 1/4" nuts are threaded onto the extra-long bolts. This will compress and hold the spacers in place. It is recommended that you try and secure the new spacer or spacers to the subfloor through the four holes molded into the spacers. You can now install a wax seal and finish the toilet installation. Never use one of the seals in place of the wax seal. THE TOILET WILL LEAK WHEN FLUSHED!

No. The flanges are strictly cosmetic. If the penetration in the finished surface needs to be watertight, you will need to use an approved silicone product for application.

C1008 Sheet Steel

Yes. We have 6 different styles of flanges that are listed below. All flanges are designed to cover the oversized hole opened in a finished surface in order to allow a pipe to pass through it without restriction or contact with the finished surface. This difference in size allows for expansion and contraction. All the styles of flanges are finished with a chrome plating. Metal - Low and High Pattern Flanges are normally used when a water line is passing through a finished surface horizontally or vertically. For example, wood cabinets, painted walls, or finished floors.
 Metal - Box Flanges are normally used when a drain line is passing through a finished surface.
 Metal - Floor and Ceiling Plates are normally used when pipes are passing through walls or floors and ceilings, this is common in commercial or multi-family building applications. These flanges are also available in a split version, which can be installed after the pipes are in place.
 Plastic – Split Flange Plates are used in the same applications as the Low Pattern Flanges. The difference with the plastic flanges is that there is a small molded line through the flange, which can easily be snapped in two. This allows for the flange to be installed as the pipes are assembled, or onto pipes already assembled. If the pipe is already in place, the plastic flange can be snapped on the molded line and installed around the pipe.  Both applications give a nice clean finished look.

Mushroom Vent Caps can be attached to any vertical sanitary vent pipe, in order to keep debris from falling into the pipe. This doesn’t apply to septic tank vents which rise vertically out of the ground, and then turn down (looking like a candy cane).

No. This product is not intended for use in any plumbing system where plumbing codes are enforced.