FAQs

Most Oatey pipe supports are suitable for both hot and cold water applications, but you must verify the temperature rating. Cold water lines operate at lower temperatures and have minimal thermal expansion, while hot water lines can reach 140°F-180°F and experience more movement. Always select pipe supports rated for your system's maximum operating temperature.

Pipe clamps secure pipes directly to walls, floors, or ceilings using a clamping mechanism that wraps around the pipe. Pipe hangers suspend pipes from overhead structures using hooks, rods, or straps. Both serve to support pipes, but hangers are typically used for horizontal runs suspended from above, while clamps are used for securing pipes to solid surfaces.

The spacing between pipe supports depends on several variables: pipe size, pipe material, and changes in direction. It is always best to check with your local building officials for new installation applications. As a general guideline, most building codes require support spacing of 4 feet for horizontal PVC pipes and 6 feet for copper pipes, but these requirements vary by jurisdiction. You can also reach out to Oatey's technical customer service department for assistance when completing a repair project.

Yes. All Oatey plastic pipe supports are approved for hydronic heating applications, but you must confirm the maximum temperature that the pipes will reach when in use.

No. A plastic hanger strap should only be used for temporary or non-load bearing applications. It can also be used as mid-level strapping where required by code, but it is not approved as the primary support for load-bearing pipe installations. For permanent pipe support, use approved pipe clamps, brackets, or metal hangers.

Yes, Oatey and QuickDrain systems are designed for both curbed and curbless showers, offering flexibility for any project.

The QuickDrain topical sheet membrane has the lowest perm rating in the industry, providing superior moisture protection for continuous-use steam showers.

Cement the inside of the triangular corner piece to itself to create a flap, then cement and fasten the flap to the liner on the straight wall, securing the top to a stud.

The recommended minimum thickness is ¼” at the flange, sloped up and away from the drain at ¼” per foot, but always follow the cement manufacturer’s guidelines.

Oatey approves Liquid Nails LN-609 (Panel & Foam Adhesive), LN-715 (Tub Surround & Shower Adhesive), and LN-915 (Tub Surround & Shower Wall Adhesive) for use with its liners.

Yes. Oatey offers three repair flange options, all of which must be set on top of the finished floor and screwed into the subfloor before setting the toilet. No-Caulk Cast Iron Repair Flange: Slides over the outside of the vertical cast iron pipe. Tighten four bolts evenly to compress the gasket and create a watertight seal. PVC/ABS Twist-N-Set Repair Flange: Inserts into the pipe; tightens by rotating clockwise. PVC/ABS Replacement Closet Repair Flange: Inserts into the pipe; sealed by tightening three stainless steel bolts evenly to compress the gasket. Fix-It Repair Ring: Provides an easy solution for repairing broken, cracked or worn-out toilet mounting flanges without replacing the flange itself. Engineered to form a secure connection between the floor and toilet, this flange repair ring aligns with the traditional method of installation: the wax ring is mounted on the flange and seals directly to the toilet. This ensures the elimination of leak paths and makes the Fix-it Repair Ring ideal for any floor type or flange installation height. Note: Pilot holes through finished flooring may be required for subfloor attachment.

Remove the toilet and clean all old wax from the existing flange. Stack spacers to reach the correct height so the bottom of the top flange sits flush with the finished floor. Install new extra-long toilet bolts, apply 100% silicone between the existing flange and first spacer (use included gaskets between additional spacers), then secure with flat washers and ¼ in. nuts. Anchor spacers to the subfloor through the molded holes, then install a wax seal and reinstall the toilet. Important: Replace the flange if broken or badly rusted — the spacer kit will not work in that case. Never substitute an included seal for the wax seal; the toilet will leak when flushed.