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The repetitive use of harsh cleaners or drain cleaners can lead to the degradation of the basket strainer finishes. To avoid this, mild cleaning agents should be used or cleaning chemicals should be quickly removed from the surface of the strainer. Remember to also use soft sponges or cloths to clean the strainer, abrasive scrubbing pads can also scratch the finished surface.

These styles of bath waste/overflows are installed when the wood framing of the home is centered directly below the vertical drop of the overflow tube, and the project requires a brass waste/overflow. These two options allow for the tub trap to be located directly below the stopper or offset to the side. The wood framing should never be cut out without approval from a local building official because it could weaken or cause collapse of surrounding floors and walls.

If you are just replacing an existing bath waste/overflow with a new one, a draining test will work. This test is completed by closing the stopper and filling the tub with cold water until it starts to flow through the overflow plate, and then shut off water and inspect all connection points behind the tub. Use cold water for energy savings. If the bath waste/overflow are part of a larger plumbing system installation, reach out to your local building officials to find out what type of test is required.

The Half Kits are sold without a DWV (drainage waste and vet) tee fitting, and without any 1½” precut pipe sections. These kits are normally purchased by contractors because they have the pipe and fittings in their stock. The Full Kits are sold with these items in the package, and are normally purchased when an installer doesn’t want to have extra pipe and fittings after the installation in completed. After installation, both kits look and operate the same way. 

This elbow is very job specific and you would only use it if your local code allows this application. In some municipalities it is approved to attach a condensate drain to the overflow elbow because of the free flow through the overflow into the sanitary drains. This elbow should never be used unless a condensate drain is connected properly, because a leak can develop if it is not. You should always check with your local building officials before installing this type of drain connection. 

This corrosion is mainly a result of continuous exposure to harsh cleaning chemicals, and also if Zinc finish hardware is used. Dearborn Brass recommends brass components and the use of mild cleaning chemicals to avoid this issue.

The 203-3 and the 230-3 are specifically designed for deeper tub applications, and are the preferred choice for these tub installations. Always check with tub manufacture for dimensional restrictions. 

No. If you install a solvent weld half or full kit bath waste/overflow, access panels are not required. Remember that you may still need an access door if the faucet doesn’t have integral shut offs built into the faucet body. 

No.

All of our bath waste/overflows are designed to allow easy access for drain cleaning. Drains can be cleaned with a power cable by removing the faceplate cover, and any interior linkage that may be attached. Then push the power cable down through the overflow opening, and it will be guided directly into the trap and on through to the tub drain. 

The traditional trip lever – The lever on the faceplate moves up and down, and is connected to internal linkage attached to a barrel. When the lever is lifted up, the barrel drops down and blocks the flow of water out of the tub drain. The center of the barrel is hollow; this allows overflow water to pass through the barrel and into the drain pipes. Any water passing through the overflow when the barrel is in the closed position, will flow through the barrel and into the drain pipes. 

The Uni-Lift Stopper – The stopper is lifted manually upwards with a slight twist to allow water to drain from the tub. With a small twist and a push down, the stopper will stop water from draining out of the tub.

The Toe-Touch – When you push down in the center of the stopper, it will close and not allow water to drain out of the tub. When you push down off center, the stopper will pop up and the water will drain out of the tub.

The Cable Drive – a concealed cable is connected to the bath shoe and overflow tube. When you turn the overflow plate, the stopper will be moved up and down.

• Brass tubular bath waste/overflow trim kits are only available in Chrome finishes.
• Polyethylene plastic tubular bath waste/overflow trim kits are available in Chrome, Brushed Nickel and Oil Rubbed Bronze finishes. Please confirm your choice of trim kit finish is available with your choice of bath waste/overflow before you purchase the product.
• PVC or ABS full and half kits trim finishes include Chrome, Brushed Nickel, Antique Bronze, Biscuit, Oil Rubbed Bronze, Ultra Shine® Satin Chrome and Ultra Shine® Satin Nickel finishes. Please confirm your choice of trim kit finish is available with your choice of bath waste/overflow before you purchase the product.
• We also offer Plastic Tubular and Schedule 40 Cable Bath Waste Conversion kits in Chrome, Biscuit, Brushed Nickel, Oil Rubbed Bronze, Ultra Shine® Polished Brass, Ultra Shine® Satin Nickel and White finishes. Please confirm your bath waste/overflow can be converted before purchasing the product.   

There are four materials to choose from:

• 17 gauge brass tubular
• Polyethylene plastic tubular
• PVC full and half kits
• ABS full and half kits

You can use one of our thread tapes or pipe joint compounds to complete this application. If you are using thread tape, wrap the male threads on the tail piece 2 or 3 times, and then screw the tail piece into the pop-up body. After the drain has been tested and found to be water tight, you can cut the excess thread tape off if desired. If you use pipe joint compound, only apply it to the male threads of the tail piece and wipe off excess after the drain has been tested.

Oatey offers a wide variety of covers that include supply line and stop covers, offset drain covers and P-trap covers. 

With the exception of the P9703 and P9703BG, all of our plastic tubular products come with the True Blue washer. The P9703 and P9703BG come with the polyethylene rigid washer. All brass tubular products come with a square cut rubber washer, which performs better on the chromed surfaces.  

• True Blue is IAPMO listed.
• True Blue won’t dry out or crack. This ensures long, leak-free protection.
• True Blue has superior flex fatigue protection, which extends the life of the washer.
• True Blue has advanced Thermoplastic Elastomer (TPE) properties. This allows the True Blue to retain its shape when the traditional polypropylene washer may not.
• Overall; the Ultra flexible elastomer washer combined with the tapered design, provides the end user with ultimate leak protection.

An Air Gap product is designed to be installed in to the countertop in some municipalities when a dishwasher is being installed. The hose from the dishwasher will connect to the inlet side of the air gap, then a separate hose will be installed between the outlet side of the air gap and the disposal or dishwasher tail piece. Check with your local building officials before installing your dishwasher because air gaps are not required in ever municipality.

No. The S-Trap is not approved for any installations that require a plumbing permits and or inspections.

No. The Form-N-Fit is not approved for any installations that require a plumbing permits and or inspections. 

If you have a disposal installed in your kitchen sink, the dishwasher drain can be connected to the ¾” drain port designed into every residential disposal. If a disposal is not available for a drain connection, Oatey offers several styles of dishwasher branch tail pieces for this application. You can find these available tail pieces in category 15 in the Oatey catalog or on our website.

No. The polypropylene materials cannot be assembled with solvent cements, they have to be assembled with the slip nuts/washers.

Yes. The N.Y. Code and L.A. Code traps are designed to work for this application.

The most common tubular product sizes are 1¼” and 1½”. These sizes are available in brass and plastic tubular products. The trap adapter connection to the branch drain in the wall will determine the largest size of tubular product which can be connected with a slip nut and washer. This point of connection can also be reduced for 1¼” tubular assemblies, with a reducing washer and slip nut. Bathroom sink installations are normally completed with 1¼” tubular products, but 1½” tubular products will also work. Kitchen sink installations can only be completed with 1½” tubular products. 

Yes. Our brass tubular products are offered in three different thicknesses (gauges).

• 17 gauge is the thickest, and is often referred to as commercial grade
• 20 gauge is our mid-range thickness
• 22 gauge is our thinnest, and is sometimes referred to as “budget grade”  

Yes. Banging sounds are generated when a quick closing valve shuts off, this creates water 
hammer. Washing machines, ice makers, single lever faucets and toilet fill valves are all considered to be quick closing. Water hammer will expose any loose pipes throughout the home and create banging sounds. If you locate the loose pipe(s) and secure them with the appropriate strap or hanger, you will be able to reduce or stop the banging sounds.

No. The installation of water lines in/or through HVAC supply or return ducts is not approved in the majority of municipalities. Before attempting this application, we recommend that you reach out to your local code enforcement officials for their approval.

The Copper and Steel Pipe Hooks, Copper Plated Milford Hangers and CTS J-Hooks are all capable supporting pipes that hang down below the Joist or finished surfaces.

Insulating Pipe Clamps

DuoFit Pipes Clamps