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We always recommend that you refer to the refrigerator manufacture instructions to ensure they do not have specific guidelines for installation. Since there are no drain connections necessary for the IMOB, Oatey IMOBs are designed for any elevation installation. 


We always recommend that you refer to the washer manufacture instructions to ensure they do not have specific guidelines for finished drain elevations. The maximum height of the WMOB would be determined by the washer manufacture, accessories such as pedestals, and local plumbing codes.  Oatey recommends the maximum elevation of the inside bottom of the WMOB is 48” above finished floor. The minimum elevation of the inside bottom of WMOB is 34” above finished floor, this is the same height as the flood level rim of a laundry sink with or without a cabinet. 


Washing machine outlet boxes and ice maker outlet boxes are made of a High Impact Polystyrene. The WMOBs can be solvent welded to ABS or PVC drain pipes. Use ABS cements for ABS drain pipe connections and PVC cements for PVC drain pipe connections. Where building officials approve, Oatey ABS to PVC Green Transition cement can be used for either drain pipe material connection to WMOB.


There are two ways to complete this application. The first is to use one of the 
approved adhesives from Liquid Nail product line; apply this product with a 1/8" trowel up the front, back and top surfaces of the curb. Then press the liner down to conform to the curb shape, and finally nailing the liner at the top edges and on the outside curb surface.  The second method is to cover (wrap) all three sides of the curb with a cut (scrap) piece of liner and nail it into place, these nails can be located anywhere because they will be covered by the second (finished) piece of pan liner. All the nails must be flush or recessed into scrap piece of liner, without any sharp edges exposed. Then after cutting your finished liner to size and reaching the curb wrapping step, apply the appropriate solvent cement for that material and cement the finished liner to the scrap liner.


Whenever possible you should purchase a piece of shower liner from a roll which all 
the Home and Garden stores stock. However; if you do get a piece that has a crease in it, lay it on a flat surface in the sun or heat with a hair dryer. Then lay a flat heavy object on top of the crease for 30 minutes. This step may have to be repeated a few times in order to create new material memory. If the creases are too large, DO NOT install the liner. Large creases left in the liner will cause water to puddle under the concrete which could affect the integrity of the cement base, or mold growth which will transfer up through the grout joints. The pan liner must be self-draining. 


If you contact our customer service department, they would be happy to send you a full set of step by step installation instructions. You can also visit our website and watch our how-to video showing a shower pan installation.

 


You cannot use any tar paper when installing the shower pan liner because the 
petroleum in the tar paper will dry the liner, and the liner will become brittle and crack if there is prolonged exposure. 


Yes. Only CPE liner is approved for this application because of its ability to withstand 
high heat.


No. The formulas are very different and cannot be interchanged.


The approved products for this application are bagged Portland Sand mix, or cement 
mix for the base and top coatings. If you are going to mix and match, you must use Portland sand mix under the liner.


Oatey 100% silicone caulk. If Oatey product is not available at your retailer, any brand of 100% silicone caulk.


The outside corners are PVC material, and you will cement them to PVC and CPE liners 
with X-15 cement only.

 


Once the liner is pushed tightly into an inside corner, there will be a triangular section 
left over. The first step will be to cement the inside of this triangular piece to itself creating a flap. The second step is to then choose a direction right or left and cement the flap to the liner on the straight wall, then nail / staple top of flap to a stud. 


No.


The drain is not the determining factor for finished pan height. The curb (threshold) is the determining factor of this application since it always above the finished height of the drain. The pan liner should finish a minimum of 6 inches above the framed or (roughed-in) curb height. This height allows for the application of concrete base and finishes to be applied.  


Once you have the two pieces of liner cut square and laid flat on a warm hard surface (above 50°F), you must overlap one of the pieces over the other at least 2”. If you are seaming PVC liner use Oatey X-15, if the liner is CPE you will use Oateyweld. Fold back  the top piece of liner and wipe any debris or foreign substance off both surfaces with  a damp cloth and then dry thoroughly. Apply the proper cement for the application to both surfaces allow 1 to 3 minutes in hot weather and 6 to 8 minutes in cold weather, then join then together. Immediately apply pressure on the seam for 15 to 30 seconds with a 2x4 or equivalent. Leave this seam cure for 12 hours before installing, but after one hour there is good handling strength and you can move the liner. 


No. Thinset or tile glue (adhesive) should never be applied directly to the shower pan liner. 


The recommended thickness for this pour is between 2” to 3”. This is the minimal thickness starting at the drain, then sloping up and away from the drain at a ¼” per foot. This is not always possible due to curb heights. If this is true, pour as thick as possible and consider a higher quality cement which will allow for a thinner pour while maintaining strength. 


This depends on the quality of the cement products you are using and the minimal thickness recommended by that specific manufacture. The normal rule is ¼” thick starting at the outside of the flange, then the concrete is sloped up and away from the drain at ¼” per foot.


Oateyweld


Oatey X-15 Shower Pan Liner Adhesive


Oatey has approved the three following Liquid Nails products for this application.

  • LN - 609 / Panel & Foam Adhesive 
  • LN - 715 / Tub Surround & Shower Adhesive
  • LN – 915 / Tub Surround & Shower Wall Adhesive

Mushroom Vent Caps can be attached to any vertical sanitary vent pipe, in order to keep debris from falling into the pipe. This doesn’t apply to septic tank vents which rise vertically out of the ground, and then turn down (looking like a candy cane).


No. This product is not intended for use in any plumbing system where plumbing codes are enforced. 


No. As the cable and cutter pass through the valve, the flapper would be damaged. Once the cable passes by the flapper, it would not be able to return because the flapper would close down on it. This would cause permanent damage to the flapper. Cleanout Tees should be installed on either side of the Backwater device.


You will have to pay attention to the drains for signs that the Backwater valve is closed. If the valve is closed the water will not be able to pass through it and will back up through the lowest drain in the home (floor drain or shower base in the lowest level of the home). The drains will also gurgle as water is being let out of the fixture.


Yes. After every heavy rain storm it would be a good practice to open the access cover and make sure no debris was lodged in between the flapper and body, which would not allow the flapper to close. If there are not any storms in a 3 month period of time, it is also recommended that you inspect the flapper to make sure that no debris from normal use is lodged or stuck between the flapper and valve body. This will ensure the valve can seat properly if a storm passes through. 


No. The flapper would remain in an open position without any backflow protection.


You should contact the barrel manufacturer for their recommendations.


You can disconnect the hose and insert the red plug.