These styles of bath waste/overflows are installed when the wood framing of the home is centered directly below the vertical drop of the overflow tube, and the project requires a brass waste/overflow. These two options allow for the tub trap to be located directly below the stopper or offset to the side. The wood framing should never be cut out without approval from a local building official because it could weaken or cause collapse of surrounding floors and walls.

If you are just replacing an existing bath waste/overflow with a new one, a draining test will work. This test is completed by closing the stopper and filling the tub with cold water until it starts to flow through the overflow plate, and then shut off water and inspect all connection points behind the tub. Use cold water for energy savings. If the bath waste/overflow are part of a larger plumbing system installation, reach out to your local building officials to find out what type of test is required.  

The Half Kits are sold without a DWV (drainage waste and vet) tee fitting, and without any 1½” precut pipe sections. These kits are normally purchased by contractors because they have the pipe and fittings in their stock. The Full Kits are sold with these items in the package, and are normally purchased when an installer doesn’t want to have extra pipe and fittings after the installation in completed. After installation, both kits look and operate the same way.   

This elbow is very job specific and you would only use it if your local code allows this application. In some municipalities it is approved to attach a condensate drain to the overflow elbow because of the free flow through the overflow into the sanitary drains. This elbow should never be used unless a condensate drain is connected properly, because a leak can develop if it is not. You should always check with your local building officials before installing this type of drain connection. 

This corrosion is mainly a result of continuous exposure to harsh cleaning chemicals, and also if Zinc finish hardware is used. Dearborn Brass recommends brass components and the use of mild cleaning chemicals to avoid this issue.

The 203-3 and the 230-3 are specifically designed for deeper tub applications, and are the preferred choice for these tub installations. Always check with tub manufacture for dimensional restrictions. 

No. If you install a solvent weld half or full kit bath waste/overflow, access panels are not required. Remember that you may still need an access door if the faucet doesn’t have integral shut offs built into the faucet body. 

No.

All of our bath waste/overflows are designed to allow easy access for drain cleaning. Drains can be cleaned with a power cable by removing the faceplate cover, and any interior linkage that may be attached. Then push the power cable down through the overflow opening, and it will be guided directly into the trap and on through to the tub drain. 

The traditional trip lever – The lever on the faceplate moves up and down, and is connected to internal linkage attached to a barrel. When the lever is lifted up, the barrel drops down and blocks the flow of water out of the tub drain. The center of the barrel is hollow; this allows overflow water to pass through the barrel and into the drain pipes. Any water passing through the overflow when the barrel is in the closed position, will flow through the barrel and into the drain pipes.  The Uni-Lift Stopper – The stopper is lifted manually upwards with a slight twist to allow water to drain from the tub. With a small twist and a push down, the stopper will stop water from draining out of the tub. The Toe-Touch – When you push down in the center of the stopper, it will close and not allow water to drain out of the tub. When you push down off center, the stopper will pop up and the water will drain out of the tub. The Cable Drive – a concealed cable is connected to the bath shoe and overflow tube. When you turn the overflow plate, the stopper will be moved up and down.