Yes. Oatey offers three repair flange options, all of which must be set on top of the finished floor and screwed into the subfloor before setting the toilet. No-Caulk Cast Iron Repair Flange: Slides over the outside of the vertical cast iron pipe. Tighten four bolts evenly to compress the gasket and create a watertight seal. PVC/ABS Twist-N-Set Repair Flange: Inserts into the pipe; tightens by rotating clockwise. PVC/ABS Replacement Closet Repair Flange: Inserts into the pipe; sealed by tightening three stainless steel bolts evenly to compress the gasket. Fix-It Repair Ring: Provides an easy solution for repairing broken, cracked or worn-out toilet mounting flanges without replacing the flange itself. Engineered to form a secure connection between the floor and toilet, this flange repair ring aligns with the traditional method of installation: the wax ring is mounted on the flange and seals directly to the toilet. This ensures the elimination of leak paths and makes the Fix-it Repair Ring ideal for any floor type or flange installation height. Note: Pilot holes through finished flooring may be required for subfloor attachment.

Remove the toilet and clean all old wax from the existing flange. Stack spacers to reach the correct height so the bottom of the top flange sits flush with the finished floor. Install new extra-long toilet bolts, apply 100% silicone between the existing flange and first spacer (use included gaskets between additional spacers), then secure with flat washers and ¼ in. nuts. Anchor spacers to the subfloor through the molded holes, then install a wax seal and reinstall the toilet. Important: Replace the flange if broken or badly rusted — the spacer kit will not work in that case. Never substitute an included seal for the wax seal; the toilet will leak when flushed.

A toilet flange (also called a closet flange) is a pipe fitting that connects the toilet to the drain pipe and secures the toilet to the floor. It creates a watertight seal between the toilet and the drainage system, preventing leaks and sewer gas from entering your home. The flange is essential for proper toilet function and must be installed at the correct height—flush with the finished floor—to ensure a proper seal with the wax ring.

To install a No-Caulk Shower Drain, start by applying a ½-inch bead of plumber’s putty (or silicone for ABS drains) to the underside of the drain flange and inserting it into the shower base. From below the base, place the rubber sealing washer and friction washer over the drain barrel and tighten the locking ring to secure it. Next, set the shower base into its final position. Place the rubber pipe gasket over the drainpipe and push it into the drain body. The flat side of the gasket should be at the bottom of No-Caulk drain body, seating onto the inside lip of the body. The beveled side of the gasket will be facing up.Tighten the gasket set screw or compression assembly to create a watertight seal, then snap the drain cover into place. For detailed instructions and visuals, see Oatey’s project guide.

Oatey is a trusted leader in commercial plumbing products, offering innovative drainage solutions that deliver performance, longevity, and peace of mind for contractors, engineers, and facility managers. Our commitment to quality and customer support makes us the preferred choice for commercial drain systems.

Oatey’s part #47700 Underdeck Clamp Kit is recommended for roof drain installations that require an underdeck clamp. This clamp is placed below the roof and attached to the drain body with four threaded rods and nuts, securing the drain body and helping maintain the integrity of the waterproofing seal.

No, waterproofing materials can only be used in series with Oatey’s flanged drain assemblies.

Yes, Oatey drain funnels are supplied with the necessary screws for installation.