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The size of the flashing is determined by the OD (outside diameter) of the pipe penetrating the roof or sidewall of home or building. Never try to slide a smaller flashing collar over a larger pipe because it will cause fatigue failure in the collar. Never install a larger collar over a smaller pipe and try to use sealant to fill the void. Any sizing miscalculations will lead to leaks within the home or building.


Oatey is pleased to announce that we do offer such a valve for washing machine and ice maker connections; it is called the “Push Connect Valve”. These valves come as part of our Outlet Box collection. They are designed to easily accept ½” Copper, CPVC and PEX pipes, by simply pushing the ½” pipe into the Push Connect Valve Fitting. If for any reason the pipe needs to be removed after installation, no problem. Simply use the quick release tool to remove that section of pipe, and insert the new piece of pipe. No need for solder, pipe joint compounds or thread sealant/Tapes; just cut, de-burr and chamfer (bevel) pipe end before pushing and connecting the pipe.


Hammer arrestors are designed to help with water hammer (banging noises) in the water lines when a washer or ice maker are in use. When the appliance’s quick closing valve shuts off, it will exposes any loose piping in the water supply system and make banging sounds. The hammer arrestor helps absorb the shock and minimize or eliminate the banging sound. Oatey manufactures a full line of pipe supports which can assist in securing the loose pipes.


Yes. Oatey offers a #38494 WMOB and #38495 IMOB that have a Warnock Hersey Certification for 1 and 2 hour fire rated walls.


No. 


No. Washing machine valves are not considered a source from which potable (drinking) water is gathered, and are not required to meet lead free requirements.


Yes. All Oatey ice maker valves are lead free and meet NSF 61, section 9 requirements.


We always recommend that you refer to the refrigerator manufacture instructions to ensure they do not have specific guidelines for installation. Since there are no drain connections necessary for the IMOB, Oatey IMOBs are designed for any elevation installation. 


We always recommend that you refer to the washer manufacture instructions to ensure they do not have specific guidelines for finished drain elevations. The maximum height of the WMOB would be determined by the washer manufacture, accessories such as pedestals, and local plumbing codes.  Oatey recommends the maximum elevation of the inside bottom of the WMOB is 48” above finished floor. The minimum elevation of the inside bottom of WMOB is 34” above finished floor, this is the same height as the flood level rim of a laundry sink with or without a cabinet. 


WMOB is a washing machine outlet box. This box is designed as a termination point for all drain and water connections necessary when installing a washing machine. IMOB is an ice maker outlet box, and is designed as a termination point for the water line connection when installing an ice maker.


There are two ways to complete this application. The first is to use one of the 
approved adhesives from Liquid Nail product line; apply this product with a 1/8" trowel up the front, back and top surfaces of the curb. Then press the liner down to conform to the curb shape, and finally nailing the liner at the top edges and on the outside curb surface.  The second method is to cover (wrap) all three sides of the curb with a cut (scrap) piece of liner and nail it into place, these nails can be located anywhere because they will be covered by the second (finished) piece of pan liner. All the nails must be flush or recessed into scrap piece of liner, without any sharp edges exposed. Then after cutting your finished liner to size and reaching the curb wrapping step, apply the appropriate solvent cement for that material and cement the finished liner to the scrap liner.


Whenever possible you should purchase a piece of shower liner from a roll which all 
the Home and Garden stores stock. However; if you do get a piece that has a crease in it, lay it on a flat surface in the sun or heat with a hair dryer. Then lay a flat heavy object on top of the crease for 30 minutes. This step may have to be repeated a few times in order to create new material memory. If the creases are too large, DO NOT install the liner. Large creases left in the liner will cause water to puddle under the concrete which could affect the integrity of the cement base, or mold growth which will transfer up through the grout joints. The pan liner must be self-draining. 


If you contact our customer service department, they would be happy to send you a full set of step by step installation instructions. You can also visit our website and watch our how-to video showing a shower pan installation.


You cannot use any tar paper when installing the shower pan liner because the 
petroleum in the tar paper will dry the liner, and the liner will become brittle and crack if there is prolonged exposure. 


Yes. Only CPE liner is approved for this application because of its ability to withstand 
high heat.


No. The formulas are very different and cannot be interchanged.


The approved products for this application are bagged Portland Sand mix, or cement 
mix for the base and top coatings. If you are going to mix and match, you must use Portland sand mix under the liner.


Oatey 100% silicone caulk. If Oatey product is not available at your retailer, any brand of 100% silicone caulk.


The outside corners are PVC material, and you will cement them to PVC and CPE liners 
with X-15 cement only.


Once the liner is pushed tightly into an inside corner, there will be a triangular section 
left over. The first step will be to cement the inside of this triangular piece to itself creating a flap. The second step is to then choose a direction right or left and cement the flap to the liner on the straight wall, then nail / staple top of flap to a stud. 


No.


The drain is not the determining factor for finished pan height. The curb (threshold) is the determining factor of this application since it always above the finished height of the drain. The pan liner should finish a minimum of 6 inches above the framed or (roughed-in) curb height. This height allows for the application of concrete base and finishes to be applied.  


Once you have the two pieces of liner cut square and laid flat on a warm hard surface (above 50°F), you must overlap one of the pieces over the other at least 2”. If you are seaming PVC liner use Oatey X-15, if the liner is CPE you will use Oateyweld. Fold back  the top piece of liner and wipe any debris or foreign substance off both surfaces with  a damp cloth and then dry thoroughly. Apply the proper cement for the application to both surfaces allow 1 to 3 minutes in hot weather and 6 to 8 minutes in cold weather, then join then together. Immediately apply pressure on the seam for 15 to 30 seconds with a 2x4 or equivalent. Leave this seam cure for 12 hours before installing, but after one hour there is good handling strength and you can move the liner. 


No. Thinset or tile glue (adhesive) should never be applied directly to the shower pan liner. 


The recommended thickness for this pour is between 2” to 3”. This is the minimal thickness starting at the drain, then sloping up and away from the drain at a ¼” per foot. This is not always possible due to curb heights. If this is true, pour as thick as possible and consider a higher quality cement which will allow for a thinner pour while maintaining strength. 


This depends on the quality of the cement products you are using and the minimal thickness recommended by that specific manufacture. The normal rule is ¼” thick starting at the outside of the flange, then the concrete is sloped up and away from the drain at ¼” per foot.


Oateyweld


Oatey X-15 Shower Pan Liner Adhesive


Oatey has approved the three following Liquid Nails products for this application.

  • LN - 609 / Panel & Foam Adhesive 
  • LN - 715 / Tub Surround & Shower Adhesive
  • LN – 915 / Tub Surround & Shower Wall Adhesive

Mushroom Vent Caps can be attached to any vertical sanitary vent pipe, in order to keep debris from falling into the pipe. This doesn’t apply to septic tank vents which rise vertically out of the ground, and then turn down (looking like a candy cane).