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Yes. Cherne publishes a chart that pairs up our pneumatic pipe plugs with some of the most popular sizes of elliptical pipes.


Both our original long ball and our MS2 Long Balls are designed to seal wye fittings while conducting a sewer test. The MS2 Long Ball is unique as it features a relief valve, is multi-size, and inflates and deflates in stages to keep the work area dry by keeping the water from coming up through the pipe riser during the deflation process.


Cherne Urethane pillow plugs, Well Monitor plug and the Petro Econ-O-Grip can be used with most hydrocarbons. Contact Cherne engineering for specific applications. 


The first step is to determine the ID (inside diameter) of the pipe that will be plugged, and then choose the plug that matches the ID of the pipe for that application. Some of our Cherne plugs can be used for multiple sizes of pipe, but they should only be used when the size range of the plug is being used on a pipe which falls within that range. When in doubt, call the customer service help desk.


All of Cherne’s pneumatic pipe plugs are made from natural rubber. The only exception is our yellow pillow plugs which are made from a polyurethane impregnated fabric.


Normal maximum temperature = 125° F. Normal minimum temperature = 0° F. Consult factory if you wish to use plug at temperatures outside this range.


Date codes on small test balls/long balls are two digit numbers (ex. 14). Date codes are changed each year on July 1st. Plugs manufactured on/after July 1st will bear the last two digits of the next year (ex. Plug manufactured on July 1st, 2014 would have a date code of 15). Larger plugs have the date codes stamped on the front of the plug. It will begin with the year, followed by a letter indicating the month, followed by a number for the day, and a letter for the unit produced. Example for a plug manufactured on February 14th, 2015 would read 15B14A.


Cherne offers a 2 year warranty on all pneumatic plugs from date of manufacture, (plugs are post-dated by six months to allow for shelf time). If kept in controlled conditions (not exposed to sunlight and kept at temperatures between 0-125 degrees F) the pneumatic plugs remain in good condition for a longer period of time. Plugs should always be inspected for visual damage prior to every use.


Test Ball and Muni Ball are trademarked names. A test ball does not have a bypass and it is designed to do one job, blocking (sealing) a pipe. A Muni Ball has a bypass tube that runs through the plug that allows the user to bypass effluent through the tube, or with an adapter cap, it can be converted to complete an air test. Muni Balls can also be used for blocking pipe as well.


You can easily transform the claw foot tub into a tub and shower with #R100 Kit. View the components in the kit.


The Sink Hole Cover can be used with any sink application when an extra hole on the faucet deck needs to be covered. 


No. The flanges are strictly cosmetic. If the penetration in the finished surface needs to be watertight, you will need to use an approved silicone product for application.


C1008 Sheet Steel


Yes. We have 6 different styles of flanges that are listed below. All flanges are designed to cover the oversized hole opened in a finished surface in order to allow a pipe to pass through it without restriction or contact with the finished surface. This difference in size allows for expansion and contraction. All the styles of flanges are finished with a chrome plating.

  • Metal - Low and High Pattern Flanges are normally used when a water line is passing through a finished surface horizontally or vertically. For example, wood cabinets, painted walls, or finished floors.

  • Metal - Box Flanges are normally used when a drain line is passing through a finished surface.

  • Metal - Floor and Ceiling Plates are normally used when pipes are passing through walls or floors and ceilings, this is common in commercial or multi-family building applications. These flanges are also available in a split version, which can be installed after the pipes are in place.

  • Plastic – Split Flange Plates are used in the same applications as the Low Pattern Flanges. The difference with the plastic flanges is that there is a small molded line through the flange, which can easily be snapped in two. This allows for the flange to be installed as the pipes are assembled, or onto pipes already assembled. If the pipe is already in place, the plastic flange can be snapped on the molded line and installed around the pipe.  Both applications give a nice clean finished look.

The brass slip nuts are chrome plated brass and the Die Cast slip nuts are chrome plated Zinc.


These clamps should only be used on ridged metal piping and never plastic.


The Cadmium Plated Steel pipe clamps are designed for temporary repairs only. This clamp should never be used to make repairs on any lines containing flammable materials, potable water or low to medium air should be the only items within the line being temporarily repaired. These clamps are not recognized by any building official as an approved pipe repair. It is very rare that a leak is isolated to only one section of a pipe and because of this, you should have a professional plumber assess the integrity of your piping system.


Yes. The following finishes are available for our Plastic Strainers, Brass and Plastic Disposal Flanges:


  • Plastic Strainers are available in Biscuit, White, Bone, Euro-White and Black

  • Brass Disposal Flanges are available in UltraShine® Polished Brass and Polished Chrome

  • Plastic Disposal Flanges are available in Biscuit, White, Bowl Bone, Euro-White and Black

Either product is compatible with our brass and stainless steel components, but this may not be true of the sinks that they are being installed into. You should always check with the sink manufacture to seek their recommendations on sealant. If the sink is a porous material, the regular plumbers putty may stain the surface. Refer to our FAQs in category 4 for some surfaces that regular plumbers putty should never be used with. You should only use silicone to seal our plastic strainers, the use of plumbers putty will cause fatigue failure.


The repetitive use of harsh cleaners or drain cleaners can lead to the degradation of the basket strainer finishes. To avoid this, mild cleaning agents should be used or cleaning chemicals should be quickly removed from the surface of the strainer. Remember to also use soft sponges or cloths to clean the strainer, abrasive scrubbing pads can also scratch the finished surface.


These styles of bath waste/overflows are installed when the wood framing of the home is centered directly below the vertical drop of the overflow tube, and the project requires a brass waste/overflow. These two options allow for the tub trap to be located directly below the stopper or offset to the side. The wood framing should never be cut out without approval from a local building official because it could weaken or cause collapse of surrounding floors and walls.


If you are just replacing an existing bath waste/overflow with a new one, a draining test will work. This test is completed by closing the stopper and filling the tub with cold water until it starts to flow through the overflow plate, and then shut off water and inspect all connection points behind the tub. Use cold water for energy savings. If the bath waste/overflow are part of a larger plumbing system installation, reach out to your local building officials to find out what type of test is required.


The Half Kits are sold without a DWV (drainage waste and vet) tee fitting, and without any 1½” precut pipe sections. These kits are normally purchased by contractors because they have the pipe and fittings in their stock. The Full Kits are sold with these items in the package, and are normally purchased when an installer doesn’t want to have extra pipe and fittings after the installation in completed. After installation, both kits look and operate the same way. 


This elbow is very job specific and you would only use it if your local code allows this application. In some municipalities it is approved to attach a condensate drain to the overflow elbow because of the free flow through the overflow into the sanitary drains. This elbow should never be used unless a condensate drain is connected properly, because a leak can develop if it is not. You should always check with your local building officials before installing this type of drain connection. 


This corrosion is mainly a result of continuous exposure to harsh cleaning chemicals, and also if Zinc finish hardware is used. Dearborn Brass recommends brass components and the use of mild cleaning chemicals to avoid this issue.


The 203-3 and the 230-3 are specifically designed for deeper tub applications, and are the preferred choice for these tub installations. Always check with tub manufacture for dimensional restrictions. 


No. If you install a solvent weld half or full kit bath waste/overflow, access panels are not required. Remember that you may still need an access door if the faucet doesn’t have integral shut offs built into the faucet body. 


No.


All of our bath waste/overflows are designed to allow easy access for drain cleaning. Drains can be cleaned with a power cable by removing the faceplate cover, and any interior linkage that may be attached. Then push the power cable down through the overflow opening, and it will be guided directly into the trap and on through to the tub drain. 


The traditional trip lever – The lever on the faceplate moves up and down, and is connected to internal linkage attached to a barrel. When the lever is lifted up, the barrel drops down and blocks the flow of water out of the tub drain. The center of the barrel is hollow; this allows overflow water to pass through the barrel and into the drain pipes. Any water passing through the overflow when the barrel is in the closed position, will flow through the barrel and into the drain pipes. 

The Uni-Lift Stopper – The stopper is lifted manually upwards with a slight twist to allow water to drain from the tub. With a small twist and a push down, the stopper will stop water from draining out of the tub.

The Toe-Touch – When you push down in the center of the stopper, it will close and not allow water to drain out of the tub. When you push down off center, the stopper will pop up and the water will drain out of the tub.

The Cable Drive – a concealed cable is connected to the bath shoe and overflow tube. When you turn the overflow plate, the stopper will be moved up and down.